Homemade face and body creams are emulsions formed by combining water, an emulsifier and oils. You should then add a natural preservative, fragrances and active ingredients depending on the properties you would like to give to your cream. Click here to read the guide about the ingredients and equipment you need for natural homemade cosmetics.

homemade diy cream

 

Generic formula of a DIY cream

A generic DIY cream formula is usually structured in this way:

Phase A (or water phase)

Ingredient

Typical weight %

Water

60-80%

Thickener (Xanthan gum and/or Guar gum)

0.1 – 0.3 %

Humectant (Glycerin)

1 – 5 %

Phase B (or fat phase)

Ingredient

Typical weight %

Emulsifier

3 - 5 %

Oils and butters

8 – 20 %

Phase C

Ingredient

Typical weight %

Water soluble active ingredients

0 – 5 %

Oil soluble active ingredients

0 – 5 %

Natural cosmetic fragrance or essential oils

0.5 – 3 %

Preservative

0.6 – 1 %


how to make homemade diy cream ingredients

 

The A phase contains water-soluble ingredients that can be heated without losing their properties.

In order to give more stability to the emulsion, the water is thickened with Xantan and/or Guar gum that are previously dispersed in a humectant (Glycerin).

The B phase contains the emulsifier and oils/butters that can be heated without losing their properties.
The emulsifiers used in natural DIY cosmetics are usually solid and melt at around 75 °C. They are the ones that let water-soluble and oil-soluble ingredients to mix together to produce a cream (as you know, mixing oil and water together without an emulsifier is impossible).
In some formulas you can find a B1 phase as well, listing the ingredients that should be added to B phase when all its ingredients have been melted already. The B1 phase ingredients are not added to B phase since the beginning because they could lose their properties if overheated.

The C phase contains active ingredients, the preservative, the fragrance and other ingredients that should be added at the end, when the emulsion has been cooled (less then 38°C) in order to keep their properties.
The oils that are heat sensitive should be added to C phase as well.

 homamade cream recipe ingredients

 

Instructions – How to make a homemade cream

  • Add glycerin and the thickener in a heat resistant glass beaker and stir. Add water and stir in the meanwhile, until the solution becomes viscous.
  • Combine phase B ingredients in another heat resistant glass beaker and stir.
  • Put both phase A and phase B glass beakers in a bain marie. When they both reach around 75°C, pour the phase B into the phase A and use the mini immersion blender for 3 minutes.
  • Place the glass beaker with the emulsion in a cold baine marie and stir with a mini silicone spatula until reaching less than 38°C.
  • Add the phase C ingredients one by one, mixing with the spatula every time.
  • Test the pH with a pH indicator strip and make sure it’s the ones suggested in the formula instructions (usually between 5 and 6).
  • Your homemade cream is ready!

 

homemade body cream spatula

 

This article is meant to give you an overview about how a classic homemade DIY cream is made. Depending on the ingredients used, the procedures and doses could be different. As an example, cream formulas that contain a cold emulsifier are done in a slightly different way and should not be heated (btw, in the most of the cases the DIY cosmetics formulas contain emulsifiers that need to be melted).

Please also read this guide before starting, making sure you are following the right procedures and safety rules.

Follow me on Facebook

Follow me on Pinterest

Login Form